The Best Kayak Racks for Trucks

How to choose the right rack system for your truck, your kayak, and your adventures

If you own a truck and love kayaking, chances are you’ve looked at that open bed and thought, “This should be easy.” But the truth is, transporting a kayak—even with a full-sized pickup—takes more planning than most people expect. Kayaks are long, unwieldy, and vulnerable to bad strapping jobs or wind drag. And your truck, despite all its utility, comes with its own limitations.

This article isn’t about specific products or brands. It’s about understanding which types of kayak rack systems work best for truck owners, and how to choose one based on your real-world needs—not marketing hype.

Not All Trucks Are Created Equal

Start here: what kind of truck do you have, and how do you actually use it?

A full-sized pickup with a bare bed gives you options that a mid-size truck with a hard tonneau cover doesn’t. Likewise, newer models like the Rivian R1T or Honda Ridgeline, with short or uniquely shaped beds, require more specialized solutions.

There’s also how you use the truck in daily life. Do you need your bed clear for tools, camping gear, or family luggage? Are you lifting a kayak solo, or always riding with a friend? The answers help define what “best” means for you.

The Main Types of Kayak Rack Systems for Trucks

There are really four common setups that work well for truck owners, each with different trade-offs in cost, complexity, and usability. Most fall into one of these categories:

1. Hitch-Mounted Bed Extenders

One of the simplest solutions for trucks with open beds is using a hitch-mounted bed extender. This setup extends the horizontal space behind your tailgate, supporting the rear half of the kayak while the front rests inside the bed.

Best for:

• Shorter kayaks (usually under 12 feet)
• Solo paddlers who want a quick, low-effort setup
• Occasional use rather than long-distance hauling

Limitations:

• Doesn’t raise the kayak—so you need long beds or short boats
• Not ideal if you need the bed space for other gear
• Rear overhang can become a safety/legal issue without proper flagging

This is often the first step people try, and for good reason—it’s cheap, accessible, and requires minimal modification to your truck.

2. Over-Bed Racks (Cab-Height or Mid-Height)

These racks mount on the bed rails and raise the kayak above the truck bed, either matching the height of your cab or sitting slightly lower. Cab-height versions allow you to extend the rack system onto your roof for maximum support. Mid-height models reduce wind drag and make loading a little easier.

Best for:

• Long kayaks (12–16 feet)
• Dual-kayak setups or boats that need cab-to-bed support
• Truck owners who still want full use of the bed

Trade-offs:

• More expensive than hitch extenders
• Installation may require drilling or mounting hardware
• Compatibility with tonneau covers varies widely

This style gives you the most versatility and hauling capacity—but comes at the cost of added complexity and weight.

3. Roof-Mounted Racks on the Cab

Sometimes the simplest option is to treat your truck like an SUV and mount a standard crossbar system on the cab roof. These are often paired with kayak saddles, J-cradles, or stacker systems to support one or more kayaks.

This approach works best when your kayak is light, your truck isn’t too tall, and you don’t want to mess with the bed.

Use this setup if:

• You have a smaller or uniquely shaped truck bed (e.g., Ridgeline, Santa Cruz)
• You rarely carry other roof cargo like rooftop tents or baskets
• You don’t want to permanently install anything on the bed

It’s worth noting that cab-mounted roof racks may not work for every kayak size—especially longer touring boats that need more than 5–6 feet of contact. But they’re still a good, lightweight option if your trips are short or your boats are light.

4. Hybrid Systems (Cab Roof + Hitch or Bed Rack)

When you’re carrying a longer kayak—or trying to balance loading ease with security—hybrid systems offer the best of both worlds. A common example is using a single front crossbar on the cab, with a rear rack mounted in the bed or from the hitch.

This creates a stable, full-length support surface without fully committing to a double-crossbar system. It also lets you keep part of your truck bed free for gear.

This setup is ideal when:

• You own a long kayak (over 13 feet)
• Your truck bed has a cover or built-in tool storage
• You want to remove the rear rack when not in use

Hybrid systems aren’t necessarily more expensive than full rack systems—but they do take more creativity to set up properly, especially if your truck doesn’t have factory roof rails.

What About If I have A Tonneau Cover?

Tonneau covers can make kayak transport tricky. Most block the mounting space that bed racks need, especially hard-fold and retractable types. The cleanest solution is using a cover with integrated T-slot rails, like the Retrax XR, which lets you mount racks above without interfering with the cover.

If your cover doesn’t support this, a roof-mounted rack on the cab is the next best option. It keeps the bed covered and avoids modification—though it makes loading tougher on tall trucks.

Custom stake-pocket racks can also work with certain soft covers, but require more planning. Avoid clamping under tonneau rails or half-removing the cover each trip—it’s inconvenient, risky, and wears everything out fast.

So, there are three good options:

• Use a rack system that integrates with T-slot rails built into the cover.
• Go with a roof-only system and skip the bed entirely
• Build a custom or modified setup that uses the bed stake pockets without interfering with the cover

Avoid trying to clamp anything under the tonneau rails or removing the cover every time. It might work once or twice, but it’s frustrating and wears out your gear fast.

Dual-Kayak Setups: Extra Considerations

Hauling two kayaks is more than double the hassle. It affects your rack choice, crossbar spacing, and strapping technique. If you plan to carry two boats regularly, look for systems that can:

• Support side-by-side or stacked configurations
• Handle extra weight without flexing or tipping
• Accept accessories like stacker poles, J-cradles, or tie-down extensions

Stackers and J-style cradles are often the best options here. They let you tilt or position the kayaks upright, which saves crossbar space and keeps everything within your truck’s frame width.

Also worth noting: if one kayak is significantly longer or heavier, put it closer to the cab or lower on the rack to maintain balance.

Securing the Kayak: Rack Alone Isn’t Enough

A good rack won’t matter if your strapping is poor. Skip ratchet straps—they can crush the hull. Use cam straps across the kayak’s body, spaced apart for balance.

Always add bow and stern lines to stop shifting in wind or sudden stops. Secure the front to a frame point or hood loop, and the rear to a hitch or bumper.

If there’s rear overhang, flag it clearly—most places legally require it. And before driving, shake the kayak. If it moves, tighten again. That quick check can prevent major issues on the road.

A reliable tie-down setup includes:

• Two cam straps (not ratchet straps) over the body
• A bow line tied to the truck’s front frame or hood loop
• A stern line secured to a hitch loop or bumper anchor
• A red flag on the tail if there’s more than 4 feet of overhang

Check everything before driving. Give the kayak a firm shake. If it shifts or flexes, it’s not secure. Better to take five more minutes in your driveway than pull over on the highway because something moved.

Final Thoughts

There’s no single “best” kayak rack for trucks—only what works best for you. What matters is matching the system to your truck layout, your kayak size, and how often you actually get out on the water.

If you’re hauling once a summer, a hitch extender and a few cam straps might be all you need. But if kayaking is a weekly adventure, investing in a full bed rack system—or even a hybrid rack setup—can make loading safer, quicker, and less of a chore.

Before buying or building anything, take real measurements. Think about roof height, kayak length, overhang, strap angles, and how much time you’re willing to spend loading and unloading. The more dialed-in your system, the more likely you are to actually use it.

And that’s the point, right?

Frequently Asked Questions